Cua Tung Beach

Cửa Tùng beach sits where the Bến Hải River flows into the sea, in the north of Quảng Trị province. About 4 km of fine sand runs along a gently sloping shore backed by red basalt soil. Two rocky headlands, Mũi Si and Mũi Lay, reach out into the sea and shelter a small bay, which keeps the water calm and clear for much of the year. Seen from above, the series of red basalt headlands pointing out to sea looks like a giant comb.

About a century ago, the French developed Cửa Tùng as one of central Vietnam's leading resorts, with European-style hotels and a church on the hill, and it was nicknamed the "Queen of Beaches". Its fortunes have changed since. From around 2003, construction at the Bến Hải river mouth - a bridge, a fishing port and breakwaters - altered the currents, and erosion washed away much of the sand.

The beach became narrower and steeper, part of it turned into a mooring for fishing boats, and visitor numbers fell. Studies are under way to restore the beaches. At the foot of one headland, fishermen still tend the graves of whales washed ashore, following the local tradition of whale worship.

The easiest way is the train to Đông Hà station in Quảng Trị, then a taxi to Cửa Tùng, about 45-60 minutes. The train costs about the same as the bus but is more comfortable if you get carsick. Many buses also run along National Highway 1A - north-south long-distance buses can drop you at a stop on the highway near Cửa Tùng. From there, take a taxi or local motorbike to the beach.

Cửa Tùng is quiet, peaceful and very local - most visitors are people from the area. There are several bathing areas, including Bãi Chính, Bãi Lách and Bãi Trằm, with fine sand and, on good days, clear water and gentle waves; on other days the surf can be bigger. The beach road is lined with shady trees, and evenings are cool and breezy. Sunrises are lovely, with fishermen bringing in their boats, and sunsets fade from orange to soft purple.

Tourism here is underdeveloped, and that cuts both ways. Fans love the unspoilt, unhurried feel and the friendly fishing community. Others, especially off-season, find it deserted and run-down, with rubbish in places, a narrowed beach after years of erosion and few organised beach services. Food options are limited, and opinions on prices vary.

Cửa Tùng works best as an easy beach break within a Quảng Trị itinerary - for families, for groups visiting the war-history sites who want a change of pace, and for anyone who likes river-mouth scenery. Spend 1-3 hours for a swim, or half a day if you add seafood, the fishing village and nearby sites around Vĩnh Linh such as Vịnh Mốc tunnels and the Bến Hải River with Hiền Lương bridge.

Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, on a clear day with moderate waves and no storm warnings. Keep the beach clean, ask prices before using any service, and remember this is a working fishing village as much as a beach.