Phùng Hưng Mural Street

Phùng Hưng Mural Street (Con Đường Bích Hoạ) runs for approximately 130 metres beneath the elevated railway line on Phùng Hưng street at the western edge of Hanoi's Old Quarter. The project transformed a previously dark and neglected stretch of railway underpasses into a public art installation, with each of the 19 arched spans painted with large-format ceramic tile murals depicting scenes of historical Hanoi - street vendors, traditional festivals, craftspeople of the 36 guild streets, seasonal landscapes, and neighbourhood life from earlier decades.

The project was completed in 2017 as a collaboration between Korean and Vietnamese artists under a Korean government cultural cooperation program. The site has become one of the more photographed street art locations in the Old Quarter and has catalysed small commercial activity in the arches themselves, with several converted into cafes and artisan workshops.

Phùng Hưng Mural Street is located at the western boundary of the Old Quarter, a 5-minute walk from Hoan Kiem Lake. From the lake, walk west along Hàng Gai or Hàng Đào street toward the railway line - the murals begin at the intersection of Phùng Hưng and Hàng Đồng streets. The street is most easily reached on foot from anywhere in the Old Quarter.

The murals cover the inner faces of 19 railway arches, each depicting a different scene. The artwork quality is high and the ceramic tile medium gives the murals a texture and durability that sets them apart from painted street art. The arches themselves create a shaded, atmospheric corridor that feels removed from the noise of the surrounding Old Quarter streets.

Several arches contain small businesses - a coffee shop, a flower stall, a ceramics workshop. The full length takes around 15-20 minutes to walk through at a comfortable pace with time to look at each panel.

Phùng Hưng Mural Street is a good addition to any Old Quarter walking itinerary - it takes very little time, costs nothing, and the covered arches provide a useful respite from sun or rain. The street connects the Old Quarter with the Hàng Da market area to the west, making it a natural through-route rather than a detour. Early morning visits before the street fills with motorbike traffic are noticeably more pleasant.