Sleng Chas Pagoda (Old Sa Leng Pagoda)

Sleng Chas Pagoda - Wat Sleng Chas (also written Wat Pôthi Slaeng), known locally as the Old Sa Leng (Sà Lôn Cũ) Pagoda - stands in Bến Chùa hamlet in Trà Cú, near the main road. It's a Khmer Theravada (Nam Tông) pagoda said to be more than 400 years old, though some sources date it to around the 18th century.

What makes it unforgettable is its colour. Instead of the bright gold and red of most Khmer pagodas, the restored pagoda is a calm silver-grey, said to represent the true nature of things, with touches of orange-red like a monk's robe. The finely carved details and soaring, multi-tiered spires look all the more dramatic under a cloudy sky.

Trà Vinh has more Khmer pagodas than any other province in the Mekong Delta - 142 of them, many centuries old. Sleng Chas is also an important cultural and spiritual centre for the local Khmer community: it hosts major Khmer festivals such as Chôl Chnăm Thmây (Khmer New Year), Sen Đôn Ta (the ancestor festival) and Ok Om Bok, and its monks teach ethics and the Khmer script to young people from the surrounding hamlets. Local families come to offer food to the monks and pray for good weather and peace at home.

Saving a 400-Year-Old Pagoda

The pagoda began as a community place of worship. The old main hall was built mainly with a traditional timber structure, like other old southern Khmer pagodas, but it stood on weak ground; despite repeated reinforcement, it was badly deteriorating and at real risk of collapse. Among its most precious parts are nine underground chambers holding nine Sayma stones and the offerings Buddhists made when the pagoda was first built - something the abbot, the management board and local people wanted protected above all.

The restoration, led by architect Phạm Ngọc Thiên Ân, had to balance two views: keeping the old structure exactly as it was, with its limitations, or using new knowledge and technology to give the pagoda more space for religious life. After discussions with the management board and local people, they agreed to preserve the timber structure while using new solutions to expand the space.

The new main hall blends Khmer architecture with inspiration from India's cave temples. In 2023, Yuji Suzuki of the World Federation of UNESCO Clubs, Centres and Associations praised the project as a good model that harmoniously combines technique and creativity in restoration and conservation. The restored pagoda was inaugurated over Tết 2026.

Sleng Chas is in Trà Cú, about 25-30 km from central Trà Vinh - around an hour by motorbike. The pagoda is near the main road and the route is easy to follow; it's just a fairly long ride. There's free parking for motorbikes and cars at the pagoda.

Seen from above, the main hall is shaped like a turtle swimming out into a pond. Four white elephant statues stand around it, spraying water into the lotus pond, with four Brahma figures seated on their backs. Rows of standing Buddha statues, carved roofs, columns and statues show a distinctive style: alongside classic Khmer figures such as the Krud bird and naga serpent, you'll find less common, locally inspired motifs.

Old sao and dầu trees shade the grounds, which are quiet enough for a slow walk or meditation. Inside the main hall, warm yellow light reflects off the stone floor, and the atmosphere is quiet and solemn.

The grey palette, spacious grounds and elaborate carvings have made Sleng Chas a favourite spot for wedding photos and pictures in traditional Khmer dress. Several shops opposite the gate rent costumes, and you'll see many young people posing in them. Facilities are good for a rural pagoda: free parking, a small drinks stall, new and clean toilets, and local eateries around the pagoda.

On weekdays it's calm and uncrowded; at Tết and during festivals, mornings can be busy. A few visitors feel the architecture is similar to other Khmer pagodas - it's the colour that sets it apart.

Plan 30-60 minutes here, longer if you're doing a costume photo shoot. Go early in the morning for cooler air and softer light, dress modestly, leave your shoes outside the main hall, and keep your voice down. If you're touring Trà Vinh's Khmer pagodas, pair it with Vàm Rây Pagoda - and visit Sleng Chas first if you want to rent a costume.