Som Rong Pagoda

If Chen Kieu Pagoda is famous for walls covered in bowls and plates, Som Rong is famous for one thing above all: a giant white reclining Buddha. The statue shows the Buddha entering nirvana and measures 63 m long and 22.5 m high, weighing about 490 tonnes. It rests on a platform 28 m above the ground, with monks' living and study quarters beneath it.

Work began in October 2017 and finished in 2021, and Sóc Trăng's culture authorities recognise it as the largest reclining Buddha in Vietnam. You can see it from hundreds of metres away.

The pagoda's full Khmer name is Wat Pătum Wôngsa Som Rong (also written Bôtum Vong Sa Som Rong). It belongs to the Khmer Theravada (Nam Tông) Buddhist tradition and was founded in 1785, first built from bamboo, wood and leaves. Since then it has been restored and expanded many times and has had 12 generations of abbots. Locals say the name comes from the wild som rong trees that once covered the area, and two of them still grow in the grounds among trees hundreds of years old.

Khmer Architecture

The grounds cover about 5 hectares. About 100 m in from the gate, the courtyard is lined with finely carved reliefs and mythical creatures from Khmer culture. The main hall has six rows of columns and a three-tiered roof decorated with figures of Keynor (a celestial maiden) and Krud (the sacred bird), and it is guarded by qilin statues. The new sala, opened in 2017, is a photo favourite for its bright colours and houses a Buddha standing on nine dragons; the old sala is now a library with more than 1,500 books for local students, residents and visitors. A 25 m stupa, built in 2010-2012, stands near the entrance - grey rather than the gold of the other buildings.

Som Rong is at 367 Tôn Đức Thắng street in the centre of Sóc Trăng, so it's easy to reach by taxi, Grab or motorbike from anywhere in town. From Ho Chi Minh City, Sóc Trăng is about 230 km away, roughly 6 hours by coach or limousine van. There's a large parking area inside the grounds for cars and motorbikes, reached by a fairly narrow lane.

Expect a spacious, green, mostly clean complex full of statues, temples and dramatic Khmer rooflines in gold, red and blue - several visitors say it feels like being in Thailand or Cambodia. The reclining Buddha is the undisputed highlight, and its serene face makes a strong impression up close. Many visitors rent Khmer costumes and hire photographers, so you'll see people posing in traditional dress all over the grounds. There's also a pond with floating stones on display.

It's a busy place, especially on weekends and festival days. Common complaints are vendors and stalls inside the grounds that take away from the sacred atmosphere, disorganised parking with no staff directing traffic, a few run-down areas and a lack of shelter from sun and rain. Opinions on the architecture also differ: some find it the most impressive Khmer pagoda they've seen, while others feel older pagodas such as Kh'leang are more beautiful and that the giant statue is the main draw.

Plan 60-90 minutes to walk around, visit the main hall and take photos, and time your visit for late afternoon so you can finish with sunset over the Buddha. Remember it's an active place of worship: dress modestly, be quiet near the halls and be respectful when taking photos.

Som Rong pairs well with other Khmer pagodas in Sóc Trăng: the Bat Pagoda and Chen Kieu Pagoda, about 12 km out of town on the road to Bạc Liêu, make an easy pagoda day.