Xiem Can Pagoda

If you're interested in Khmer culture and the Angkor-inspired architecture of southern Vietnam, Xiêm Cán belongs on your list. Often called one of the grandest Khmer pagodas in the Mekong Delta, it rises from the rice fields about 12 km from the centre of Bạc Liêu, its golden roofs visible from far down the road. In 2022 the Mekong Delta Tourism Association recognised it as a typical tourist destination of the region.

History and Name

According to an old Khmer stone inscription at the pagoda, construction began on 7 May 1887. It was built by a couple, Mr Nên and Mrs Ngét, together with 30 other local Khmer families, who had to carry the building materials across a river some 10 km away. The pagoda was first named Komphisako, meaning 'deep sea', a symbol of the depth of Buddhist knowledge.

When Teochew Chinese settlers arrived, they called it Xiêm Cán, meaning 'by the water', because the pagoda then stood only about 500 m from the sea. Over the years, sediment has pushed the coastline out, and the sea is now about 5 km away.

More than 135 years on, Xiêm Cán remains an active Khmer Theravada (Nam Tông) pagoda and an important spiritual and cultural centre for the local Khmer community. In the afternoons, you may see monks teaching Khmer children in the grounds.

Xiêm Cán is in Biển Đông B hamlet, about 12 km from the centre of the former Bạc Liêu city and a little over 200 km from Ho Chi Minh City. It lies on the road to the Bạc Liêu wind farm, so it's easy to combine the two. Opinions on the road differ: some find it easy, others describe the last stretch of about 10 km as rough and tiring, and signposting is limited - follow your map. You can drive or ride straight into the pagoda grounds.

The pagoda blends southern Khmer style with Angkor-inspired details. A solid wall decorated with elaborate motifs surrounds the large grounds, which hold many towers and buildings. The roofs rise in several tiers - usually three to five - each narrower than the one below, ending in a tall spire, with upswept ends like the tails of mythical birds and bright yellow, red and orange tiles. The main hall, 36.3 m high, is said to be the tallest of any Khmer pagoda in southern Vietnam.

Inside the main hall, an altar to Shakyamuni Buddha is surrounded by statues depicting the stages of his life, and paintings painted by local people cover the walls and ceiling, telling the story of the Buddha's life - the ceiling is a highlight. The pagoda also keeps 115 statues, an old stone inscription and an ancient bell.

Visitors' impressions vary. Many find it majestic, peaceful and spacious, with friendly monks and children. Others point out that much of the courtyard is concrete, with stupas of former monks and not much shade, so it gets very hot; that pigeon droppings around the main hall aren't cleaned up; and that some areas need cleaning. During renovations, some halls may be closed.

Allow 45-90 minutes to walk around, visit the main hall, offer incense and take photos. Go early in the morning for cooler air and the chance to hear chanting, dress for a place of worship, and stop at the Bạc Liêu wind farm on the same road afterwards.

If you're exploring Khmer pagodas across the region, Sóc Trăng is next door, with Chen Kieu, Som Rong and Kh'leang pagodas.