Island highlights
Morning: join a kayak tour of Lan Ha Bay - dramatically fewer boats than Ha Long, better for swimming and exploration. Afternoon: Cat Co 1 or Cat Co 3 beaches for swimming. Evening: seafood in Cat Ba town. Optional: bioluminescence night kayak tour (around 400,000-700,000 VND) - a guide leads you through the bay in darkness to see plankton glow in the water. Book in advance, runs most nights. Only worthwhile if you're not exhausted from the day.
Hospital CaveTrung Trang CaveCát Bà National Park
Hospital Cave first - a secret hospital built inside the rock in the 1960s. It is currently closed, so you can only see the outside; check locally before going. Then buy the 120,000 VND ticket for Trung Trang Cave and the national park summit trek (Ngu Lam Peak). Optional: continue the full 12km jungle trek through to Viet Hai Village (160,000 VND, ~5-6 hours one way) - only if you have the energy and an early start. Arrange a boat back from Viet Hai rather than trekking back.